![]() However, this shouldn't be a problem as the lowest power drawn in my house is 154-watts of electronics and refrigerator after I and the wife go to bed. So when I get around to finally connecting my system to the house, I will have to make sure I always have at least 80-watts of power on in the house or my controller could cause hell with the TV's and my computer and other electronics. ![]() So it looks like my 2424lv needs an ac load of a minimum of 80-watts. I'm now using a 60-watt bulb with a 20-watt LED bulb and the lights don't flicker and they come on instantly. Every time the lights would flicker and not come on until I reached 80 watts. I then tried a 60-watt bulb with different size LED bulbs. It wasn't until I increased to Load with a 100-watt incandescent light bulb that the light would come on without any flickering. So I removed the LED bulbs and connected a 40-watt incandescent bulb and got the same results. So I figured the controller isn't putting out a high enough initial voltage to trigger the LED bulbs. I added 3 more 9-watt led bulbs and all the light would still do is flicker and not come on. (System not connected to the house yet) I used one 20-watt led bulb and on battery power, but all the bulb would do is flicker on and off. With respect to my house, all lights are LED so while checking my system before connecting the array panel. The LUT-MLC might help, and it isn't that expensive. Those bulbs are notorious for being super cheap inside- designed around commercial retrofits with standard switches. Should be fine with the PD-5ANS, but you might try and source an LUT-MLC and add that in. ![]() But yesterday I brought the system home so I could connect solar panels to the system as I don't have access to the direct sun at my hanger. grezex- ugh, dimmable 4 pin fluorescent replacements. For several months the 2424lv has been sitting on my workbench in my hanger and working flawlessly. Up until this time I have been using a 140-watt fan or 100-watt heat lamp as my load from my 2424lv. I have the MTTP 2424LV-msd (all-in-one) controller/inverter. I think thats "daisy chaining".Īnyways, just wondering how to wire this shunt cap in.Found out something about a little solar system. How is it wired between the switch and lights? My lights are in parallel with the switch ( neutrals all wired together at switch, neutral to panel and neutral to lights wired together) then my lights are in parallel to the switch hot/neutral into first light from switch, hot/neutral from light, and then hot/neutral to next light, and so on. Thanks for replying! I have a few general questions about the lut-mlc. That being said, plenty have successfully added an MLC to a dimming circuit and are happy with the results. Note that the only official use that I have ever seen documented for using the MLC is the non-neutral switches in Caseta, RA2, and Maestro Wireless. Thus eliminating the "ghosting" you are experiencing. Once the dimmer or switch is turned "on", the excess current will fill the remainder on the capacitor and then travel to the fixture. The MLC is a 6mA shunt capacitor, it works by absorbing the LED readout on the digital dimmers in the home control lines- Caseta, RadioRA2, HWQS, RA2 Select. Please advise I am not an electrician or electrical engineer.ġ) Change the LEDs to an approved product- may not solve the problemĢ) Change dimmer to the PD-6ANS- most likely would solve or at least reduce the "ghosting" you are experiencingģ) Try the LUT-MLC- lots of posts on this, Lutron reluctantly has mentioned the MLC with dimming now. Then, if the lut-mlc is not correct what can I use as a shunt?.Is one solution to my ghosting using the Lut - MLC adaptive cap? Is the Lut-MLC a snubber circuit?.Am I correct that my lights have not met the minimum load rating for the switch and the current is bleeding through to my lights and powering them on?. ![]() So, my question is who can I talk to about this? I've emailed Lutron today ( Case Number: 7755889 ).Both rooms are on individual dimmer switch. They interrupted constant hot wire from panel box, to the hot to my LED lights. Lights purchased : Sunco 4" recess LED dimmable lightsĪll switches were wired with no neutral connected. Lights and dimmer work fine at full power, and dim down fine enough. The lights I purchased were not on the recommended lighting list, and I believe what I am experiencing is the bleed through amperage (5 milli amps) of the Lutron dimmer switch in conjunction with my, smaller than minimum, load is allowing my five lights in my dining room to glow when the dimmer switch is "Off", and the two lights to glow brighter when their dimmer switch, in my dining room, is "off" ? There is no ground in either circuit - old home. I am experiencing ghosting, or glowing of my LED's lights, when turning off my lutron casseta switch.
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